K r a m p u s

As sounds of concern rend the air in our roastery each holiday season, we know Krampus has made his annual appearance. Krampus set out to burn our most prized peaberries to scare us into being good, but the joke is on him, because we’re already on our best behavior, and what he scorched and left behind is actually delicious. This peaberry selection hails from the Rungeto Factory in Kenya’s Kii cooperative. Sourced from peak outturns, it allows us to offer this seasonal single-origin, rich with deep chocolate and burned citrus notes.

Kenya's coffee history is marked by innovation, quality, and a unique production system. Introduced by French missionaries in the late 19th century, coffee soon became vital to Kenya's economy. The country's high-altitude regions, volcanic soils, and ideal climate are perfect for Arabica beans. Known for meticulous processing and quality, Kenyan coffee is celebrated worldwide for its bright acidity, fruity flavors, and floral aromas. Despite challenges like climate change and price fluctuations, Kenya remains a leading producer of premium coffee. We've visited Kenyan auctions and its coffee regions for over a decade, witnessing continuous innovation and excellence in specialty coffee

With less than 10mg of caffeine per 12oz cup, these coffees still have full flavor. Whether you are sensitive to or abstain from caffeine, you can enjoy them in the morning, noon, and night.

1600 MASL

Elevation influences coffee cultivation, impacting flavor and quality. Higher elevations offer cooler temperatures, slowing the growth of coffee cherries, allowing more time for complex sugar and flavor development. This results in coffee with brighter acidity and a nuanced flavor profile. Additionally, cooler conditions at high altitudes reduce pests and diseases, making these coffees highly prized for their superior quality and distinct taste.

SL28

Tall both in stature and in reputation, the SL28 variety was developed in the early 1930's by Scott Laboratories. This cultivar was spread across Kenya and Uganda, where it is commonly still cultivated today. Specialty coffee oldheads will, without a doubt, rave about the perfection of SL28 Kenyan lots of old, where it presented with juicy acidity like currant and citrus. This variety is now cultivated worldwide and is an Onyx favorite.

SL34

A lesser known Scott Laboratories variety developed around the same timeframe as SL28, this cultivar was developed and selected from a just a single tree. More akin to Typica in profile, this variety has also proliferated across the globe. We enjoy isolated SL34 lots for their delicate florals and bright acidity.

Ruiru 11

This is a new, enigmatic variety spreading across Kenya and the surrounding areas. This compact and yielding variety is now chosen for its disease resistance more than anything other reason. Unfortunately, it is blended and processed among both of the SL varieties in Kenya, to the detriment of the cup quality of these lots. It is rumored among those who specialize in processing that this variety needs picked later and processed longer than the superstars it grows beside.

Kenya

The specialty harvest within East Africa takes place from early October through December and sometimes into January. As with all agriculture, the harvest times can vary due to factors like rainfall, average sunlight, and general temperature swings. We purchase from our relationships in East Africa once a year around January through February. The freshness season is extended well beyond most especially in Ethiopia. We source and land containers year round, thanks to the long voyage these coffees go on.

Dry Washed

This washed coffee is depulped and fermented dry for twenty-four hours, followed by channel washing. The parchment coffee is then dried for approximately fifteen days on raised beds. The processing impact in the final cup is light, with flavor indicating few signs of fermentation within the overall cup profile.

Raised-Bed Dried

Raised-beds are scaffold like structures that elevate perforated trays that hold coffee parchment or cherries. The holes in the structure allow for airflow on a near 360 degree level, ensuring that the coffee dries evenly when proper bed turning is practiced. Some even go as far as covering the beds with a partial block from the sun, which extends drying and ensures the cell structure of the coffee goes largely undamaged from the UV.

Loring S70 Peregrine

Prior to production, each roast goes through a rigorous dial-in process, where we fine-tune our temperature curves. We roast to tight tolerances, with no more than 1° deviation from target temperatures, ensuring quality and consistency in each batch.

Expressive Dark

Offerings that fall within our dark category are heavily developed, but origin characteristics are not lost in the cup. Our sensory notes we find common for this roast category are dark chocolate and cocoa, molasses or brown sugar, with more clear fruit characteristics if they're present in the intrinsic taste profile of the coffee. Coffees within this development range exhibit acidity and clear sweetness, garnering the adjective of expressive.

Evergreen

Day after day, producers, roasters, and cuppers alike all spend countless hours of work to produce and roast small, traceable lots that we within specialty coffee call microlots. Ranging anywhere from a few lbs to many pallets, this nebulous category refers to a traceable single-origin, producer or even specific picking date. Is all that hard work keeping things separate worth it? That is up for you to decide...

Filter, Espresso

Our Education Team, guided by a commitment to quality, uses a blend of sensory skills and technology to brew the best coffee in our cafes and brew guides. We strive for vibrant and mouthwatering acidity, complex and approachable flavor, persistent and clear sweetness, and structured and pleasant mouthfeel, ensuring you're getting the best coffee experience.

In December of ‘19 we visited our friends at NKG mills just outside of Nairobi, Kenya. Christophe from NKG has been very kind to us through the seasons, during the harvest he drove us up to visit a few stations that we had purchased from in the past. While driving through Kirinyaga county, we stopped to visit the Kii factory of the Rungeto Farmers Cooperative Society. The Kii factory sits on a vibrant red dirt road just outside the Githure, where trucks come in full of cherry to be dropped into a large tank to be processed. Kii is under careful management, where they uphold strict quality standards from cherry to drying. After cherries are dropped off, they’re sorted and depulped. The parchment ferments in dry tanks overnight. Once it’s been fermented, the parchment is passed through clean tiled channels, where it is washed of the last mucilage before being transferred to a drying bed. Once the coffee is transferred to the drying beds, it is labeled and turned often to ensure even drying. At the time of our visit, the Kii factory drying beds were nearly completely full. Kii operating at maximum capacity is due to the growing membership of the Rungeto FCS. Between the three factories, the coop has over four thousand members, and processes nearly nine thousand bags of coffee throughout the harvest.

Since that initial visit to Rungeto, we’ve continually purchased large swaths of their PB outturns. This season, we zeroed in on the cupping table on this peaberry lot, which is a blend of the three factories' top-quality peaberries. (Read more on peaberries below.)

Kenya Processing and The Auction System
Kenya’s coffee system is renowned for its sophistication, utilizing two main channels for selling and exporting: the Nairobi Coffee Exchange, a central auction system, and a marketer direct-sale system. Cooperatives frequently opt for the auction route, where coffees are evaluated and sold based on quality. To participate, licensed marketers receive weekly samples, allowing them to assess the coffees before bidding. We usually focus on outturns 14 to 21, which occur later in the harvest and often produce coffees with exceptional flavor and complexity.

Kenya’s coffee processing method is just as meticulous. After hand-sorting to remove under- or overripe cherries, the coffee is depulped and undergoes a two-day dry fermentation in white ceramic tanks, followed by washing with fresh water to remove the mucilage. The beans are then soaked, sorted by density, and dried on raised beds until they reach optimal moisture content. Once dried, the coffee is further sorted by size and density, which determines its grade for auction.

The AA grade (screen size 17/18) is the largest and most sought-after, often commanding the highest prices due to its size and reputation for superior quality. However, AB (screen size 15/16) coffees, which represent around 30% of Kenya’s production, can rival or even surpass AA lots in flavor. Meanwhile, Peaberry (PB), a rare formation where only one round bean develops inside the cherry, represents about 10% of production and often delivers distinctive winey, syrupy notes. Each grade, whether AA, AB, or PB, offers a unique and refined expression of Kenya’s celebrated coffee heritage, providing reason enough to return season after season for our sourcing needs.

Green Cost

The subject of paying for green coffee is inherently complicated. While the amount paid is very important, the payment terms and type of contract negotiated during the purchase are also paramount. Paying $5/lb of coffee can be a great price, but could be detrimental to a producer if the payment terms exceed that of their needs. Here we will dive into not only what was paid for the coffee, but how the coffee was purchased. There is a glossary of terms to be found below which will aid in your understanding of industry terms.

Farm Gate - This reflects what is paid to the producer of the coffee at the farm level. Oftentimes in terms of our relationship coffees, FOB is fairly close to the farm gate price, except for countries like Ethiopia and Kenya, when it is very difficult to trace back all the way to the producer.

FOB - Free on Board. This means that the seller is responsible for any overland fees that happen before the coffee is on board the ship. This is our most frequently listed green cost, as it is the most simple way to present what we pay a seller, but it does not reflect what the person growing the coffee was paid.

EXW- This most often reflects the 'spot' price that we paid for a coffee. All of the cost is paid by the importer, and more often than not the FOB price as well as the transport costs are unknown.

Transportation Cost

This number represents the cost we incurred while the coffee was moved from the producing country to our roastery in Arkansas. The amount of information we supply here is correlated to the transparency grade we issue the coffee. The better the grade, the more we can break down this information.

The price listed below is the cost we incurred while moving this palletized coffee from New Jersey to our roastery in Arkansas. All other import and export fees are unknown at this time and included in the Green Cost.

Production Cost

The following list includes many of the costs associated with producing our coffee. We have always maintained transparency as a principle but have lumped these things under the label of “production costs” without going into detail. While the following list isn’t exhaustive, hopefully it gives you a picture of the work, expense, and investment involved in executing coffee at the level that we do. At this time we are listing our cost of production for each pound of coffee at around $5.45. There are obviously many other aspects to running a business such as shrink, mistakes, new equipment and maintenance, but this works as an arbitrary cost associated with making one box of coffee. 

Fixed Costs
These are costs associated with simply having a business. Things like utilities of internet, natural gas, phones, rent, business licenses, fees, etc. These things increase every year. For example, most commercial leases increase by 2% every year. We periodically look at these costs and try to reduce expenses, but work in this area are small moves of the needle as these are mostly the same and usually increase every year. In 2019, we invested in a solar energy system for our roastery. It was installed in 2020 and we are seeing a great return in terms of monthly costs of electricity. 

Packaging
This is all the things that go into packaging the coffee from the roaster to your house. There’s the biodegradable bag, the recyclable box, the compostable mailer, different boxes for bulk shipping, the paper that pads the coffee, tape, and a few odds and ends. (Read about our new retail packaging HERE). These costs are separate from the green and roasted coffee but a part of the cost of producing coffee ready to ship and consume. We want our coffee to arrive in a secure fashion, looking like it did when it left our roastery: with style and design but also keeping the environment in mind. Shipping packages inevitably has waste associated and we’re working towards sustainability at each step. 

Labor
We are proud of our team and the way they are so thoroughly dedicated to excellence and to being the best at their respective roles across the industry. We work to make coffee jobs both sustainable and celebrated. We pay salaries, provide health insurance, and give regular raises. Our coffee doesn’t taste the way it does without all of our team working had and performing at a high level. Often we have a handful of staff that get celebrated, but everyone on our team contributes and is valuable. Our roastery production crew has earned a small commission on coffees sold since 2017. Onyx is not just a brand or a design or a café, we are truly made by every person on our team.

We all know it takes work to make anything. Our approach has more labor involved than you may think. Because we visit every Relationship Coffee producer, that means our green buying team of Jon and Dakota typically spend a total of six months traveling. We’re committed to visiting and cupping on the ground, this inevitably is an investment of time, of money, of long lay overs, of encountering government coupes and protests, and forging some of the greatest friendships and seeing some of the most beautiful landscapes imaginable. 
Another place we are highly invested in labor is in our coffee quality control. Our QC manager literally cups every single batch of coffee that we roast, scores it, makes notes, gives feedback. These records can be found in Find My Roast. This is essentially a full time job. This is something that we technically don’t have to do, but in chasing our goal of having the world’s best coffee we can’t know exactly how each roast measures up without cupping it. 

We have more roasters than we technically need. We roast in small batch size, meaning we don’t max out the capacity of our roasting machines. This translates into us roasting more actual batches and necessitates more time. This concept is driven by our desire for quality.
 
We have a creative team that helps create all things visible, digital, and print. These folks are very talented and have really helped push the dream of Onyx to the next level. We believe that coffee can inherently be great, but having something that looks and feels good helps inform expectations, helps bring value, and tells the stories in coffee in a way that is tangible and important.

These are a few of the jobs we feel really have more involvement than might be imagined, but throughout Onyx there are touch points of intentionally positioned team members to help create the best possible coffee experience. 

Coffee Roasting
Roasting itself creates loss in coffee. There’s the straightforward fact that when coffee is roasted it loses between 7% and 8% of its weight, meaning that if you bought 1000lbs of a lot you end up with 920lbs of roasted coffee. We also use what’s called an "optical sorter" which sorts all of our coffee after its roasted and kicks out 2% of all coffees. Sorting just creates an overall cleaner coffee, eliminating any outlying beans that are discolored, are quakers, etc. This totals around 10% loss of coffee before it even is bagged for retail or wholesale. We donate this rejected coffee to local food banks, non-profits and halfway houses.

Then there’s profiling the coffee. We roast test batches before we release coffees to dial in roasting profiles, and we often make multiple tweaks. The coffee is then cupped multiple times, used to create brewing recipes and guides and used in training. We also pull a sample of each batch of coffee to quality control. 

We are committed to shipping only the absolute best coffees to our customers, and these measures—although costly—are in place to help create trust between you and us.

Taxes
We all know what this is. We set aside and submit money every quarter for taxes along with paying all of the weekly and monthly taxes we are obligated to pay. This can be tough for a small business as there are ebbs and flows in cash flow, and taxes are often not paid in conjunction with the sales season.

Fair Trade Minimum

Since coffee was first sold, producers have sought to increase or maintain the price of their product. In 1988, the first certified Fair Trade coffee was sold in Holland as a partnership with a cooperative in Mexico. This was a major stepping stone in coffee trading, as it promised farmers a safety net when the volatile commodity market of coffee plummeted. Fair Trade ensures that farmers will be paid a minimum price for their product, which serves mostly as a safety net when all other prices drop. As the specialty market has grown, criticism for Fair Trade has grown alongside it. Consumers and coffee professionals alike have misunderstood Fair Trade Certified coffees to be the answer to a growing coffee price crisis. Many have used these ethical labels to continue to pay coffee producers a minimum price for a product that has exploded in popularity through the years. We are careful not to minimize what Fair Trade and other certifications have accomplished through the years, viewing a set minimum price as a stepping stone to a larger conversation about how the industry treats valuable producing partners. As we avoid settling for the bare minimum, we always pay at least double Fair Trade minimums based on the quality of coffee we purchase.

In a recent decision, Fairtrade International made a historic raise to its coffee prices. The new Fairtrade minimum price for washed arabica coffee will be $1.80/Lb, an increase of $0.40/Lb. Additionally, the guaranteed premium for coffee sold as both Fairtrade + Organic (FTO) is increasing from $0.30/Lb to $0.40/Lb. These changes bring the base price for FTO to $2.40/Lb, up 26% from the current $1.90/Lb level. The new Fairtrade prices will come into effect for contracts issued from August 1, 2023, onwards.

C Market

In the modern world, coffee is valued as one of the most important agricultural exports of developing nations. Most coffee in the world is produced as an ubiquitous green seed to be roasted by large roasters and sold on a shelf with little information about where it comes from and who grew it. Like other agricultural commodities, coffee is traded in future contracts on many exchanges. This price is dictated by global economic forces such as supply and demand, which is set by the largest suppliers and the largest buyers. The price of commodity coffee has been in major decline since the collapse of the International Coffee Agreement, and also due to forces outside the coffee industry as a whole. The minimum price that a producer has gotten for their product since the collapse of the ICA has hovered around $1.20/ lb, but within the last few years it is most frequently found to be under $1.00/ lb, which many industry experts consider to be under the cost of production. The commodity price of coffee never dictates the prices we pay for coffee, due to the precedence that quality takes in the specialty industry. We factor in cup score, variety, process, country of origin, and other factors when drawing up our private contracts with producing partners. Choosing to list the commodity market price at the time of our purchase shows the distinct difference in markets, as we strive for a more holistic and honest approach to the way that coffee is purchased.

Cup Score

As we travel the world and taste coffees, we evaluate all the coffees we taste on a scoresheet developed by coffee professionals around the world. Through this, we can participate in and use the language of an industry standard set of guidelines. This allows us to honestly assign a numerical score to any coffee we taste, creating the ability for a starting point in a discussion of the quality of each coffee. We list the cup score of each coffee we purchase as part of our ethos of transparency, not as an end all be all statement of drinkability. Many of us agree that we’d rather drink an 86 point coffee rather than an 88 point coffee. We list it because the cup score serves as a reference of quality, allowing producers to negotiate higher prices based on the hard work they’ve done to achieve this quality. This is the imperfect industry answer to the commodification of coffee, which can be bought and sold based on economics, rather than the nuances and sweetness in the cup…

For more information on coffee sensory science, check out the Coffee Quality Institute.

Lot Size

Lot size is seemingly straightforward when taken at face value, but it gets more convoluted as you look closely at the vernacular of the specialty coffee industry. Terms such as micro-lot and macro-lot get awfully blurry as we buy coffee from different parts of the world. Like many other things in the coffee industry, there is not one catchall term that will tell you if your coffee is indeed a micro-lot. The size of a lot rarely informs us of the quality of that lot, which is a difficult concept to shake coming out of the early years of specialty coffee. Lot size informs us of one thing: the size of that lot. We can, however, take this time to talk about how coffee is separated at the production level, and how we make sense of it from country to country.

The first way we see coffee divided up is by region. These lots are often built up of many farms, Coops, or washing stations. This often signifies that the lot was built to reflect the flavor characteristics of the region. Colombia comes to mind when we think of regional blends, and these blends can often be very valuable to roasters and producers if transparency is upheld and fair prices are paid. We partner with friends like Pergamino Coffee to build regional lots, where within we seek to uphold transparency and quality.

The second way we see coffee represented is by a cooperative, farm, or washing station. Oftentimes this is where you begin to see 'micro-lot' sized offerings, which can often be built from several parts of each farm, or a few farms in one area. (Sounds a bit like a regional blend, doesn't it?) These lots represent an entire harvest, where individual day lots are blended to form an offering that is of a decent exportable size. This ranges from just 100-300 kg all the way up to several full containers of exportable green. One thing is to note, forming a single farm lot can often take just as much cupping and profiling as the large regional blends, due to each day or weeks pickings being separated and cupped to ensure they fall into quality standards.

The final way we see coffee represented is by day lot. This is where terroir comes into play, due to organic variations in the environment such as shade, soil type, tree age, and many other factors. Nearly any quality control program that is on a farm level will evaluate harvest this way. This allows producers to isolate parts of the farm or crop that is facing some challenges, as well as to select truly remarkable day lots to represent the pinnacle of their work. These small offerings range from just a few kilograms up to several thousand. We see these lots most often during auctions such as Best of Panama and Cup of Excellence, where they fetch high prices. Each one of those lots not only represents the hard work of each producer, but they also represent the amount of coffee that was filtered out during this quality control stage. This focus on the minuscule may seem like semantics to some, but as you zoom back out to your cup you realize just how many decisions were made before it arrived in your hands.

Pay Structure

These ratings do not signify the “ethical grade” of a purchased coffee, instead they are created to show data to everyone. These ratings simply signify how much we understand what the grower of our coffees actually make. This is not an “us” vs “them” mentality of Roasters & Producers against Importers & Exporters or Farmers vs Customers that narrative can be damaging and usually full of fallacies. All parties are needed for this beautiful industry to thrive and our position is that sharing data has no moral position. It is simply numbers and math. We’ll leave the morale high ground to others even if this data is filtered through preconceived notions.

A+

This rating signifies we have published the price and payment went directly to the producer as well as all parties involved in logistics. Money exchanged was only though Onyx and producing parties. No procurement payments or bank financing were made. Mills, Exporter, and Importer are all known and quality scores are published. Farm gate, FOB, Milling, Logistics proven.

A

This rating signifies we have published the price and payment went directly to the producer . Money exchanged was only though Onyx and producing parties. Importer was hired to move coffee in the United States. No procurement payments or bank financing were made. Mills, Exporter, and Importer are all known and quality scores are published. Farm gate, FOB, Milling, Logistics proven.

A-

This rating signifies we have purchased directly from a cooperative or association and published price of FOB and wire to the head of a Cooperative or Farmers Association who pays members we are working with at Origin. We ask and publish what farm gate price was that is reported from farmers. Mills, Exporter, and Importer are all known and quality scores are published. FOB, Milling, Logistics proven.

B+

This rating signifies a published price of payment that went directly to a producer but producer also buys cherry from other neighboring farms. Verbal confirmation and published prices of Farm gate are acquired for coffees, but we only pay producer in contact. Mills, Exporter, and Importer are all known and quality scores are published.
FOB, Milling, Logistics proven.

B

This rating signifies we have published FOB price and pay directly to Cooperative or Exporter at Origin. Farm Gate price is proprietary or lacks of records of payments. Mills, Exporter, and Importer are all known and quality scores are published.

B-

This rating signifies we purchased this coffee from an Importer and visited farm, cooperative or exporter with the importer. We negotiate the contract with the importer representative and not the producer or cooperative. We pay directly to the importing company, Farm Gate price is provided by importer and published. Price, Logistics and Quality scores are published.

C+

This rating signifies we purchased this coffee from an Importer. We pay directly to the company. FOB price was provided by importer and is published, Farm gate price is unknown or proprietary information and unshared. Price and Quality scores are published.

C

This rating signifies we purchased this coffee from an Importer. We pay directly to the company. FOB and Farm Gate price is unknown or proprietary information and unshared. Price and Quality scores are published.

F

Little to no information is known about the producer and process itself. Transactional system without understanding the factors that combine into getting the coffee produced and exported.