Kenya Kiunyu AA
Cupping at Dormans is a unique experience, to say the least. They’ve recently built a very large cupping lab and dry mill just outside Nairobi. If you’re lucky enough to catch a thirty-minute Uber to their offices, you will be met by the well-oiled machine that is Dormans coffee. Hundreds of coffees are roasted, cupped, and logged there each day by some very talented and kind people. At any point during harvest, you will find a handful of over-caffeinated green buyers scanning their notes and passing over a table with 60+ coffees on it. During my two day visit, I cupped a total of 408 coffees. My usual number of coffees I taste at origin is around 60-100, so this is substantially more. Out of those coffees, I selected just four lots that will become our Kenyan offerings this year. Our friends at Dormans have been kind enough to buy a few coffees by direct sale, (See Kenya Auctions below) and this year these coffees were exemplary.
KARITHATHI FARMERS COOPERATIVE SOCIETY
Kiunyu is the first of two wet mills (factories) owned by the Karithathi Farmers Cooperative Society located in Kianyaga. The cooperative is mostly made of small-hold farmers with around 1200 current members. We cupped this lot at the Dormans Coffee cupping lab in Kenya this February, and right away, it jumped off the table. Incredible ripe fruits and complex sugars were apparent immediately. Pursuing this coffee during the auction was an obvious choice. Now that the coffee has landed at the roastery, it cups exactly as we remember and validates all our anticipated excitement.
Kenya has a pretty advanced coffee system. Two avenues are used to sell and export most coffee: the Nairobi Coffee Exchange (central auction system) and a direct-sale system with a marketer. Cooperatives tend to lean towards the first and use the auction system to sell their coffees based on quality. You must be a licensed marketer to buy coffee through the competitive auction system by bidding on coffees. Auctions are held every Tuesday with samples of the coffees going out to the marketers and cuppers the week prior. This way you can cup the outturns for the week and decide which coffees you wish to bid on. An outturn refers to the week of wet milling and production of coffee. You’ll see a number next to all our Kenya lots which describe which outturn it was. We tend to like outturns between 14-21, which are in the middle to the end of harvest time and usually have the most nutrient-dense and best-tasting coffees.
This year coffee production was down about 25% in Kenya. This means the auction system for the coffees that cupped higher reached almost unprecedented levels. While this does mean our Kenyans will be a bit more expensive this year, it also meant less competition for us. And we were able to purchase quite a few more lots than we normally do. This is our personal best year of sourcing in Kenya. We are really excited to release some special lots all year long.
In the Kenya process, first the cherries are sorted, and under-ripe/overripe cherries are removed. Once the sorting is finished the coffee is then depulped. This is done by squeezing the cherry through a screen and removing the fruit and skin from the bean. The coffee is then left to ferment in white ceramic tiled tanks for 24 hours. Next, the coffee is stirred for a short amount of time and left to ferment for another 24 hours. After two days of dry fermentation, the coffee is washed with fresh water, removing the sticky mucilage attached to the beans that are loosened by bacteria during the fermentation. It’s then soaked in water to ferment overnight slightly. The coffee goes through sorting and density channels which separates the lots, and then it is taken to raised beds to dry. Once it reaches 11.5-12% moisture content, the coffee is brought to conditioning bins to rest until it goes to the dry mill.
Once a coffee has been processed, dried and then milled it goes to a sorter that separates the beans by specific characteristics, mainly size. Coffee goes into a machine that vibrates sending beans through different screens with certain size holes and sorts the coffee based on size and density. This results in a more uniform coffee and cup profile. Then the coffees are auctioned based on the grade (size & density) they have.
AA (screen size 17 & 18)
The largest and most celebrated grade of Kenyan coffee. Usually the highest priced coffee on the auction from each outturn and factory. AA is is the most common grade we buy and what we normally expect from an outstanding Kenya cup.
AB (screen size 15 & 16)
This grade represents about 30% of Kenya's production. While AB is usually considered lower quality than AA, we find that to not be accurate in the cup. Over the years of cupping, we have consistently found incredible AB’s that actually cup better than their more prestigious AA relatives, enforcing the idea that everything must be cupped and not have its value determined based on classification or reputation.
Peaberries represent about 10% of Kenya's production. They are a result of a coffee cherry only producing one bean instead of two. Technically they are fused together during the early stages and form one round bean instead of two half spheres. We tend to notice more fermentation tasting notes here. Winey, syrupy, and mouth coating are some of the attributes that we usually notice in the cup.
E (large Peaberries & large chipped beans)
C (screen size 14 & 15)
TT (falls through 14)
T (small or broken pieces of beans)
Wanna know more about how we brew? Then visit our brew methods page cause "this is how we brew it" (think Montell Jordan when reading that last part).
FILTER - AeroPress
30g Coffee : 120g Water 190°F
~1:25 Drain Time
- Add coffee and 120g water
- Stir for 10s
- Cover and flip, rest for 40s
- Plunge for 20s
~1:25 Drain Time
- Add 110g water to dilute or to taste
This recipe was the 2015 Japan Brewers Champion’s recipe. Tetsu Kasuya used a Kenyan coffee for this recipe, so we found it fitting to try this recipe out for ourselves! It is slightly edited for our needs and specific coffee, but you’ll find this recipe works out well for most coffees. We recommend a traditional drip grind setting for this brew. Expect bright apricot and warm berries with brown sugar. This recipe is traditionally built to under-extract a coffee coarser grind, so under extraction here still tastes quite good, but too much, and it tastes like tart peach. You’ll notice as you extract more, with a finer grind, the coffee’s acidity will mellow, and the sweetness with heighten.
ESPRESSO - Modbar EP
Brew Temp: 198°F, Line Pressure: ~3.5 bars, Max Pressure: 9 bars,
Pressure Profile: 0 sec to 4 sec - line pressure, from 4 sec till done - 9 bars
18g in : ~45g out @ ~25s
This Kenya espresso was smooth and sweet. Rather than bordering on too bright, this Kenyan coffee had a nice, round body with stone fruit and berries. In milk, expect the blackberry and brown sugar to come to the forefront. If this coffee pulls too quickly, under-extracts, it tastes too tart like an unripe peach. If this coffee pulls too long, over-extracts, it tastes paper and muddled with little sweetness.
Kenya Kiunyu AA
This Relationship Coffee what we purchased this coffee through our friends at Dormans Coffee in Nairobi. This is a direct-sale coffee purchased through Kiunyu. We paid $5.33 per pound total and cupped the coffee at an 87.5, purchasing fifteen 60-kilo bags. We partnered with our friends at Royal New York to bring in all four lots from Dormans.
- The Coffee Commodity purchase price was $0.99/lb when we purchased this coffee.
- The Fair Trade Coffee minimum price was $1.60/lb when we purchased this coffee.
* We as a company believe transparency is unbelievably important. However, we decided only to list what is shown here because we don’t know where to stop. Do we list the amount of coffee lost in roasting due to moisture loss? Should we list our roaster Mark's salary? The warehouse rent? The utilities? The point of listing things above is not to justify what we charge or what we profit, but to give a realistic snapshot of the industry and how Specialty Coffee can be different than other commodity industries. If you have concerns feel free to email us and I’ll write you back when I’m available.
Relationship Coffee is an initiative we, at Onyx, have purposely created to describe our sourcing and buying practices and how we document them. Certifications like Direct Trade, Fair Trade, and others have impacted the coffee communities in mostly positive ways but also in some negative ways. We find that blanket terms and applying them to a multitude of business models no longer describes what we do.
In reality, every company is different, and we wanted to step out from the mold and create a new set of standards that exceeds in every department from quality to transparency to pricing. The growers, exporters, importers, associations, cooperatives, and other entities are always a set of relationships. To be honest, many are our friends as much as they are our producers and partners. We share information, family news, meals, housing, many faiths, and argue politics. Oh, and we love it. Relationship Coffee for Onyx is the mark of an honest exchange ethos that permeates our company, and we hope it encourages the growth of specialty coffee for the future.
We visited the farm or cupping lab and listened to the producer/agronomist or head cooperative/association to ascertain better knowledge about the culture and practices.
We cupped the coffee, and it scored to our industry-high standards.
We do not buy futures or multiple harvests to ensure that what we cupped for that year is what we serve.
We do not ask for exclusivity from producers, binding their options.
We pay what the coffee is worth. This always is at least double Fair Trade minimum due to the quality we buy, and many times is three to ten times the amount.
We do not finance any coffee. Cash flow is just as important as final price. Coffee is paid in full upon delivery, and we pay a percentage up front upon contracting.
We are completely transparent from price to logistics to cupping score, to who we work with buying and shipping coffee.
We work to set premiums after a contracted price to incentivize quality and community building. This can be .10¢ - .25¢ extra per pound or community projects such as school supplies in the growing village, sports jerseys, vented chimneys for kitchen fires, etc.