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Colombia Inmaculada Gesha - SOLD OUT

STORY

In 2010 the Holguin family began their coffee journey in Valle del Cauca, Colombia. They have a long history of producing both palm oil trees and sugar cane in Nariño. They started with 5.12 hectares*, and nine years later they hold 50 hectares that is divided up into four farms, all of which have a unique climate. Inmaculada Coffee Farms is divided up into El Jardin, Las Nubes, Monserrat, and Inmaculada Concepcion. Inmaculada’s focus on growing exotic varieties and processing them to highlight their terroir is inspiring. Their goal is to “produce the most extraordinary coffees possible, regardless of risk or costs.” Most of the varieties they grow are incredibly low yielding and difficult to grow, proving their commitment to their goal. Within the grounds of their Inmaculada Concepcion farm, there is an old Catholic school that has been turned into their dry mill and cupping lab, complete with a Ferris wheel style drying bed on the roof. After cupping in their classroom-converted-to cupping lab, we zeroed in on four varieties that highlight what Inmaculada is accomplishing with all their hard work.

*A hectare is a unit of measure widely used in coffee-producing regions. 1 hectare is about 2.4 acres.

 

GESHA VARIETY

Originally from Ethiopia, Gesha gained notoriety in Costa Rica and Panama in the early years of specialty coffee. This variety is globally recognized (and celebrated) for its distant floral fragrance and aroma, tea-like characteristics, and delicate fruit flavors. Gesha has dominated the competition scene over the past few years, skyrocketing its popularity and availability across the globe. The high prices it fetches have driven farmers to plant it on the highest part of their farms, but Julian and his team have eschewed this, choosing instead to take a more holistic view of planting this hard-to-grow variety. They begin by choosing only the green-tipped Gesha plants, with the theory that the bronze leaf tipped plants may be a regression of sorts. (Time and data may prove or disprove this theory.)   Intercropping also plays an important part in the health and productivity of his Gesha. Each farm has a complex network of intercropped biodynamic plants, providing shade and nitrogen to the coffee. All the care that is taken in the production of this variety leads to an immensely sweet and floral cup.

 

NATURALLY PROCESSED COFFEE

Natural coffees are beautiful… Okay, natural coffees are beautiful when done properly and are pretty much the worst thing when not. Natural processing, or dry processing, refers to the act of drying and fermenting coffee inside the cherry. After the coffee cherries are picked from the tree, they are placed on perforated drying beds to allow airflow all around the cherry. They are dried in the sun until they have 12% moisture content or so and then hulled to remove the dry husk of the fruit. Naturally (get it?), they exhibit fruit-forward characteristics and have a good chance of tasting “fermenty,” which is usually a taboo in Specialty Coffee. However, with an advanced technique in picking and drying, high-quality naturals are being produced, and the cup quality and taste profiles are astoundingly good. We have long promoted alternative processing methods, and naturals are at the top of that list.


SUGGESTED USE

Wanna know more about how we brew? Then visit our brew methods page cause "this is how we brew it" (think Montell Jordan when reading that last part).


FILTER – Hario V60
20g Coffee : 300g Water 205°F
~3:30 Drain Time
4:6 Method


FILTER – Kalita Wave
25g Coffee : 400g Water @ 205°F
Pour - 2:00
~3:30 Drain Time

This Gesha is delicious. It's almost as if the sweetness in the other Inmacculada coffees carries through to this clean, natural Gesha. Look for mango, yogurt tartness, floral orange, jasmine, and a long honey-like sweetness. We liked two recipes for this coffee. The V60 uses less coffee (hurray) and brings out more brightness and florals, while the Kalita recipe we used on bar and brings out more tropical sweetness and body. In many ways the quintessential Gesha coffee and yet in many ways so unique! This coffee wants to brew right! For our V60 recipe grind about the same as you would for a Chemex. For our Kalita recipe, we recommend your standard grind setting. Look out for a too fast drain time, under-extraction yields a tart cup, and over-extraction produces a very floral, but less sweet cup.


TRANSPARENCY

Colombia Inmaculada Gesha

This is a Relationship Coffeefrom Inmaculada Coffee Farms.  We purchased 150 pounds at $22 per pound of this Gesha, cupping it 88 points on the SCAA scoresheet. This Gesha was purchased as part of a box set, as well as individual release. This lot was air freighted along with several other rare varieties, and Inmaculada was kind enough to split the cost of freight with us.

 

- The Coffee Commodity purchase price was $1.06/lb when we purchased this coffee.
- The Fair Trade Coffee minimum price was $1.60/lb when we purchased this coffee.

 

We as a company believe transparency is unbelievably important. However, we decided only to list what is shown here because we don’t know where to stop. Do we list the amount of coffee lost in roasting due to moisture loss? Should we list our roaster Mark's salary? The warehouse rent? The utilities? The point of listing things above is not to justify what we charge or what we profit, but to give a realistic snapshot of the industry and how Specialty Coffee can be different than other commodity industries. If you have concerns feel free to email us and I’ll write you back when I’m available. 

- Jon

 

RELATIONSHIP COFFEE

Relationship Coffee is an initiative we, at Onyx, have purposely created to describe our sourcing and buying practices and how we document them. Certifications like Direct Trade, Fair Trade, and others have impacted the coffee communities in mostly positive ways but also in some negative ways. We find that blanket terms and applying them to a multitude of business models no longer describes what we do.

 

In reality, every company is different, and we wanted to step out from the mold and create a new set of standards that exceeds in every department from quality to transparency to pricing. The growers, exporters, importers, associations, cooperatives, and other entities are always a set of relationships. To be honest, many are our friends as much as they are our producers and partners. We share information, family news, meals, housing, many faiths, and argue politics. Oh, and we love it. Relationship Coffee for Onyx is the mark of an honest exchange ethos that permeates our company, and we hope it encourages the growth of specialty coffee for the future.

 

GOALS

  • We visited the farm or cupping lab and listened to the producer/agronomist or head cooperative/association to ascertain better knowledge about the culture and practices.

  • We cupped the coffee, and it scored to our industry-high standards.

  • We do not buy futures or multiple harvests to ensure that what we cupped for that year is what we serve.

  • We do not ask for exclusivity from producers, binding their options.

  • We pay what the coffee is worth. This always is at least double Fair Trade minimum due to the quality we buy, and many times is three to ten times the amount.

  • We do not finance any coffee. Cash flow is just as important as the final price. Coffee is paid in full upon delivery, and we pay a percentage up front upon contracting. 

  • We are completely transparent from price to logistics to cupping score, to who we work with buying and shipping coffee.

  • We work to set premiums after a contracted price to incentivize quality and community building. This can be .10¢ - .25¢ extra per pound or community projects such as school supplies in the growing village, sports jerseys, vented chimneys for kitchen fires, etc.

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